The sporran: Definitively Scottish
MARNEY CARMICHAEL

CULTURES worldwide are associated with unique clothing design. Scotland is best known for Highland dress and an essential set piece of any male kilt-wearer's outfit is the sporran. A survival of the medieval purse, the sporran was the Highlander's pocket they did not have.

The sporran, or sporan in Gaelic, has come a long way from a doeskin bag containing ammunition or daily rations. Nowadays they are made from PVC leather, faux fur and even buttons and carry everything from car keys to condoms. But despite modern enhancements sporrans have retained their basic design.

As early as the 12th century Highland warriors were described as being "bare-legged, with shaggy cloaks and a scrip [small bag] hanging ex humeris ". But function was a feature over fashion in medieval life. As such, sporrans were worn on a tight belt around the waist. Only when the sporran became largely ornamental did it descend to its present position - and for obvious reasons.

Nonetheless, the sporran is important in historical fashion terms. Trends and fashion in mainland Europe, and later in North America, influenced dress in Scotland – both through tourists visiting Scotland and Scots traveling abroad. Clothing styles changed and new fabrics were introduced.

Early sporrans were made from leather or skin alone (deerskin and calfskin proved popular) and were gathered at the top by basic drawstrings or by thongs with small tassels. In some cases cloth pouches (called trews ) would have been worn. These were quite common in the Western Isles.

From the late 17th century and early 18th century sporrans were generally fitted with clasps. Made of brass or occasionally silver, the metal work of some existing clasps from this period are seen as works of art. The goat-hair variety, sporran molach (hairy sporran), was introduced by the military in the 18th century, and was likened to the "costume fever" of the age. Such sporrans often had flap-tops and large tassels with a shaving-brush appearance. A variety of furs and hair such as fox and horse were also used. Some sporrans were even made from sealskin and the head of a badger.

While various original sporrans from the 14th century and onwards are on display at Scottish museums, the history and evolution of the sporran can also be seen in early British military paintings and portraits of Highland soldiers. Some of these sporrans were elaborately decorated with studs or had distinctive clasps and locks.

Sporrans have intrigued writers too. It is said that poet and novelist Sir Walter Scott was inspired by an 18th century sporran he saw on display at a Scottish museum. The sporran – now featured at the National Museum in Edinburgh - had a clasp of brass and steel with four concealed pistols. The contraption was meant to be discharged in a reckless attempt to open the locked purse, thus injuring the intruder. Scott incorporated this device into his story Rob Roy where Roy himself declared, "I advise no man to attempt opening this sporran till he has my secret."

Surely this is something that Edinburgh's own Sean Connery as James Bond could have used.

Source: http://heritage.scotsman.com/clans.cfm?id=726222005

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